One must consciously formulate functional carriers for the products,
rather than just focus on "active components" ~~ Anna Lotan
Using The Right Excipient :
One of the fundamental elements of the Anna Lotan Treatment Principles is that one must consciously formulate functional Carriers (Excipients) for products, rather than just focussing on active components.
The professional formulator today must strive to understand and follow the natural processes related to the skins metabolism, using them to their advantage rather than working against them.
The art of formulating really effective skin care products is to use just enough active ingredients to achieve the desired result, and only just enough.
At first glance, this may appear to be counter intuitive. After all, if thirty percent of a product is active ingredients then it just has to be better than a product with only 2%, right?
Quite the opposite in fact.
If you stop and think about it for a minute, you can begin to grasp the logic.
Thirty percent active ingredients can be like using a very large hammer to crack a walnut. Yes, you will get to the desired result, but the consequent damage to the container, your skin, can be far in excess of what was actually necessary to achieve the desired objective.
A really good skin care product is equally about the active ingredients and the excipients (carriers) they employ. In many cases, using the right excipient might mean that a product need only contain one percent, or even less, actives.
In order to assist our professional clients, we now classify our products by Excipient Classes according to the following table.
LS – Liquid Soap, water soluble surfactant based cleanser.
W –Liquid containing water soluble actives.
– Oil in water (hydrophilic) emulsion in which the external phase is water(diluted by addition of water), stabilized by hydrophilic emulsifiers.
CG – Cream Gel, “Emulsifier free”, three dimensional, configuration of oil and water droplets, stabilized by hydrophilic polymers (natural or synthetic).
– Water in Oil emulsion in which the external phase is oil (diluted by addition of oil), stabilized by lipophilic emulsifiers.
HG – Hydrogel containing water soluble actives.
HGP – Hydrogel containing non soluble powders (Mud masks etc.)
AG - Alcohol based gel containing hydro-alcohol soluble actives.
OIL - Liquid containing oil soluble actives.
– Hydrophilic (washable) oil, containing emulsifiers and oil soluble actives.
LG – Lipogel (oil based gel), may be hydrophilic (washable) or not.
LGS – Hydropylic Lipogel with scrubbing (exfoliating) particles (Beads, crystals etc.)
– Powder containing actives in powder form.
– Hydrophilic (water soluble) powder, usually used in solution, following addition of appropriate quantity of water.
SP – A suspension of powders in a water based liquid (or gel).