A brief Consumer Glossary of some of the more commonly used skin care terms.
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Acne
"Acne" is another term for a blemish or a pimple that occurs in the skin. It is usually more prevalent in oily skin. Severe acne causes cysts and infected abscesses. Individuals experiencing severe acne should always seek the help of a professional dermatologist.
Adolescence
"Adolescence" refers to the physiological transition from childhood to adulthood. Adolescence ranges roughly from 11-18 years of age. The hormonal changes that occur during adolescence can cause oil glands in the skin to become overactive and much more prone to breakouts.
Adult-onset acne
Most frequently a condition occurring in females, this type of acne turns appearsthe age of 18. It can crop up in women's 20s, 30s, or even later in life. It's sometimes referred to as female adult acne or post-adolescent acne.
Aesthetics (Esthetics)
The science or study of beauty.
Aesthetician (Esthetician)
A professionally qualified practitioner of Aesthetics.
Algae (Seaweed)
The terms algae and seaweed are often used interchangeably, which causes some confusion. Seaweeds are algae that have a particular growth form, but the term algae also includes a wide range of other terrestrial and aquatic organisms with different evolutionary histories. Algae occur in all marine and terrestrial ecosystems of the world wherever there is water.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
Naturally-occurring acids found in sugar cane and citrus fruit. AHAs include lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, and pyruvic acid. Glycolic acid is the most popular of the AHAs, because it has the smallest molecular structure and most easily penetrates into the skin’s surface. AHAs have the ability to remove and loosen cells from the stratum corneum (skin surface), causing the skin to look smoother and making wrinkles less noticeable. The use of AHAs also helps retain moisture in the surface layers of the skin.
Amino Acids
Amino acids are critical to life, and have many functions in metabolism. One particularly important function is to serve as the building blocks ofproteins, which are linear chains of amino acids.
Antimicrobial
A substance that slows/restricts the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi which can taint a skin care product.
Antioxidant
Antioxidants work to combat the “free radical cells” that damage your skin. They counteract Free Radical damage by binding to the free radicals, transforming them into non-damaging compounds, or repairing cellular damage.In addition, they promote stimulation of new collagen growth.
Astringent
Meaning "to bind fast," astringents constrict cellular tissues, reduce pores and minimize oil production. An astringent is a solution that removes oil from the skin. Often used after a facial wash to remove any remaining traces of a cleanser.
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Barrier
A paper-thin layer at the top of the epidermis that provides the skin's protective functions. It is referred as the stratum corneum.
Blackhead
An open comedon. The dark acne lesion that consists of a plug of keratin and sebum. The dark color is due to a buildup of oxidised melanin.
Blemishes
Pimples that occur in the skin.
Blood Capillaries
The capillaries are the smallest blood vessels you can find in your body. Their job is to distribute nutrients and oxygenated blood to the tissues of your body, and remove deoxygenated blood and cellular waste from the tissues back into the veins.
Blue light therapy
A visible light treatment that works by killing the acne producing bacteria, however, for a only short period of time.
Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen/Sun Protection
Broad-spectrum sunscreens contain ingredients that protect against UVA and UVB radiation. If you wish, think "A for Aging" and "B for Burning". UVB rays are shorter rays that are known to burn the skin while UVA rays are longer rays that can penetrate deeper and lead to premature aging of the skin. It is imperative to protect your skin from both UVA and UVB rays.
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Cell Renewal
The process by which skin cells are born at the base of the epidermis and slowly move upward until they form a paper-thin barrier at the top of the epidermis. This indispensable new barrier guards against moisture loss and environmental damage.
Cell Renewal Factor (CRF)
A measure of cell turnover, the process by which skin produces new skin cells which travel from the lowest layer of the epidermis to the top layer and then shed off the skin. This is what keeps dead cells from building up on the skins surface.
The CRF (Cell Renewal Factor) changes as we age. Babies: 14 days; Teenagers: 21 – 28 days; Middle age: 28 – 42 days; 50 and up: 42 – 84 days.
Chemical Peel
Application of a product to the skin to remove dead or damaged cells of the epidermis, improving skin texture, and decreasing fine lines and wrinkles. The term peel is misleading as the procedure is not intended to remove live tissue, only dead, or damaged cells from the stratum corneum (skin surface). Deeper penetrating procedures with high concentrations of exfoliating chemicals are intended for a dermatologist’s use.
CO2 Extracts
Also known as Super Critical CO2 Extracts or Supercritical Fluid CO2 extracts, are extremely pure plant extracts produced from a relatively new and highly efficient extraction process. Click here to find out more Super Critical CO2 extraction.
Collagen
Collagen is a natural protein found in the dermis, or middle layer of the skin. It is the most abundant protein making up about 75% of the skin. Along with elastin, collagen provides strength to the skin, giving it its form and shape and firmness.
Combination Skin
A person has combination skin if they have more than one type of skin on the face—that is, oily skin on their "T-zone" or forehead, nose and chin, and dry or normal skin type on their cheeks.
A product applied to the skin that includes an ingredient which increases the accumulation of dead cells within the follicles (increased retention hyperkeratosis), leading to blackhead formation and acne flare-ups.
Cradle Cap
Seborrheic dermatitis is found on the scalp, face, chest and back. A scaly, oily erythematous (reddish) eruption is present, but without papules or pustules. It affects between 3-5% of the adult population, with males being slightly more afficted than females. It can occur at any age. When it occurs in infants, it is known as "Cradle Cap" in the more severe cases. Following infancy, Seborrheic dermatitis usually does not usually appear again until after puberty, but it can then continue for a lifetime.
The area of the female body from the base of the neck to the top of the bosom. We normally include this area when we talk about facial skin.
Dermabraison
Method to remove the skin's top layers and improve irregularities in the skin surface, such as acne scars or chicken pox marks using a rapidly rotating wheel or brush attached to a motorized handle to perform high speed sanding. Newer technologies, such as lasers, have begun to supplant this procedure.
Dermatologically Tested
Clinical tests performed under the supervision of an independent third party dermatologist.
Dermis
The middle layer of the skin, the dermis, is a complex combination of blood vessels, hair follicles, and sebaceous (oil) glands. Here, you’ll find collagen and elastin, the two proteins necessary for skin health because they offer support and elasticity.
Dry Skin
Skin with very little moisture. People with dry skin typically have fine pores and few-to-no blemishes. Dry skin will feel parched and tight, especially after cleansing.
Dunaliella Salina
A seaweed, grown in highly concentrated saline water, known for its anti-oxidant activity.
A skin inflammation characterized by itching, scaling, and redness of the skin. Eczema should be treated by a dermatologist.
Elastin
Elastin is a natural protein found in the dermis, or middle layer of the skin. Along with collagen, elastin provides strength to the skin, giving it its form, shape and elasticity.As with collagen, elastin is affected by time and the elements. Diminished levels of this protein cause your skin to wrinkle and sag.
Emollient
Typically a mixture of oils that smoothes, softens, reduces roughness, cracking and irritation of the skin.
Emulsifier
A substance that helps keep oils and liquids in suspension to prevent separation of the ingredients. Without the benefits of emulsifiers, products would separate and cleansers couldn't clean your face.
A body exfoliation treatment that uses ingredients such as protein enzymes or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that chemically dissolve dead skin cells without the surface abrasive action of other body exfoliation treatments. AHAs are naturally-occurring acids found in sugarcane and citrus fruit. Glycolic acid is the most popular of the AHAs because it has the smallest molecular structure. The enzyme peel is typically applied as a body mask and provides a period of relaxation for the client until the treatment is rubbed or washed off, depending on the product manufacturer’s instructions.
Epidermis
The uppermost layer of the skin where cell renewal takes place.It is the thinnest layer, but is responsible for protecting your skin from the harsh environment, with five layers of its own the stratum germinativum, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum, and stratum corneum.
Volatile plant oils, extracted from certain aromatic plants, that have both physiological and psychological effects on the human body.
Exfoliants
Skin care products that break down and remove keratinized cells that naturally build up on the skin's surface. Even skin functioning at peak performance and normal skin can benefit from an exfoliant. Exfoliants help restore that healthy, translucent glow we all strive for.
Exfoliation
A natural process that removes dulling dead cells from the skin's surface and keeps skin looking fresh and young.
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Free Radicals
Free Radicals are created when oxygen produces by-products during normal cellular metabolism. More accurately, this reactive oxygen ‘borrows’ electrons from proteins, DNA and cell membranes, damaging tissue. Free radicals are produced by normal human metabolism however they can be increased by the environmental hazards particularly smoking, drinking alcohol, exposure to heavy metals and UV radiation.
Each human has an estimated 90,000 genes. Genes are found in DNA and determine the characteristics that a person inherits from his/her parents. For example, a person's genes determine the amount melanin in the skin and the amount of sebum naturally produced by the skin.
Gommage
The use of long massage-like strokes to apply creams that cleanse and rehydrate the skin. Gommage offers many benefits, as it removes dead cells and toxins that have accumulated on the surface of the skin. Gommage works to cleanse the skin, stimulating cellular regeneration and blood circulation, and increases effectiveness of skin products by enabling them to penetrate the skin with ease.
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Hair Follicles
The sacs in the skin from which hair grows.
Hormones
Chemicals found naturally in the body that control processes like growth and metabolism. As we age, hormonal changes may cause the skin to become oilier during the teen years and drier in the late twenties and early thirties.
Humectant
Humectants are hygroscopic substances which preserve and retain the skins natural moisture.
Hydration
The moisture in the skin, which is very important to the skin's health. Good hydration helps our skin combat the effects of the outside environment. Inadequately moisturised or dehydrated skin shows signs of tightness of skin, fine lines, and reduced skin glow (dullness).
Hydrophilic
Attracting or associating with water.
Hygroscopic
Hygroscopy is the ability of a substance to attract and hold water molecules from the surrounding enviorment.
Hyperpigmentation
A darkening of the skin that can take the form of a suntan or brown age spots on the skin. Hyperpigmentation is usually the result of overexposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun, or the result of hormonal imbalance, which causes an overproduction of melanin in the skin.
Hypoallergenic
A term used to describe products that in tests have been shown not to cause new allergic reactions. The tests are conducted by independent third party clinical laboratories..
Hypodermis
The bottom or deepest layer of the skin. It is composed of fatty tissue that cushions and supports the two layers of skin above it. It hosts sweat glands, fat and collagen cells, and is responsible for conserving your body’s heat, and protecting your vital inner organs.
Hyaluronic Acid.
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant skincare ingredient which means it draws water to the skin and increases the water content of the epidermis (or outer most layer of the skin). The great thing about hyaluronic acid is that it holds 1,000 times its weight in water. When applied topically it has a two-fold purpose to increase your skin's moisture content and help prevent moisture loss as well.
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Impurities
Dirt and pollutants that can collect on the surface of the skin. If impurities are not removed, pores can get clogged, the skin will be more prone to breakouts, and can look dull.
Incidental Sun Exposure
Exposure to the sun that occurs unintentionally during every day activities. For example, exposure to the sun that occurs when a person is walking to a building from a car is incidental sun exposure.
This dominant protein in your skin makes up hair, nails and the surface layer of the skin. Keratin is what forms the rigidity of your skin.
Keratinocytes
Produce the keratin protein, the main component of the epidermis.
A group of naturally occurring compounds that do not dissolve in water. The lipids in moisturisers protect the skin's natural barrier, holding moisture in the skin to keep it soft and supple.
Melanin is a pigment that gives skin its color. It is produced at the base of the epidermis. The more melanin you have, the darker your skin. The amount of melanin you naturally have depends on your genetic makeup, sun exposure, and other physiological conditions, such as hormone levels.
Melanocytes
Produce your skin pigment, known as melanin.
Moisture Barrier
A function of the paper-thin layer at the top of the epidermis that protects against excessive moisture loss.
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Non-acnegenic
The term "non-acnegenic" refers to products that do not cause acne. Non-comedogenic The term "non-comedogenic" refers to products that do not cause clogged pores of the skin.
Normal Skin
Normal skin has the right balance of moisture and oil, so it doesn't feel too dry or oily.
Oily skin is typically caused by production of sebum in the dermis. This can be the result of natural hormonal changes. People with oily skin tend to have large pores and are prone to breakouts.
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PA (Protection UVA)
A quantified system used in some countries to help consumers understand the level of UVA protection in their sunscreen. The PA system ranges from PA + (low UVA protection) to PA +++ (high UVA protection).
Peptides
Combined amino acids create peptide bonds which create protein that maintain health of hair, nails and skin.
pH
Measures the acidity of a substance. Neutral pH is considered to be 7.0 (the pH of pure water). Substances with a pH of less than 7.0 are acids; pHs higher than 7.0 are bases. The lower the pH the stronger the acid. The higher the pH, the stronger the base. Very high pHs or low pHs are irritating to the skin and may cause acid or chemical burns.
Pores
Tiny openings on the skin through which oil or sweat, may pass.
Psoriasis
A chronic disease of the skin characterized by red patches, scaling, and inflammation. Psoriasis should be treated by a dermatologist.
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Rosacea
A skin condition that commonly occurs in fair-skinned women. Rosacea is characterized by flushing and redness on the nose and cheeks. Rosacea should be treated by a dermatologist.
Seaweed (Algae)
The terms algae and seaweed are often used interchangeably, which causes some confusion. Seaweeds are algae that have a particular growth form, but the term algae also includes a wide range of other terrestrial and aquatic organisms with different evolutionary histories. Algae occur in all marine and terrestrial ecosystems of the world wherever there is water.
Seborrhea
Seborrheic dermatitis is found on the scalp, face, chest and back. A scaly, oily erythematous (reddish) eruption is present, but without papules or pustules. It affects between 3-5% of the adult population, with males being slightly more afficted than females. It can occur at any age. When it occurs in infants, it is known as "cradle cap" in the more severe cases. After infancy, Seborrheic dermatitis usually does not appear until after puberty, but it can then continue for a lifetime.
Sebacious Glands
Sebaceous glands secrete an oily substance that coats the skin and keeps it moist. These glands are generally concentrated in the skin of the face, scalp, back and chest. While present in the body from birth, the glands only become active during puberty.
Sebum
Oil produced by glands in the dermis, or middle layer of the skin.
Sensitive Skin
This skin type, especially, reacts externally and internally to changes in life. Both oily and dry, it can be easily disturbed by skin-care products and cosmetics. It tends to go blotchy and have broken veins at the same time. It may show a flushed or reddened look and may even itch.
Skin Care System
A skin care system provides a complete regimen including: a cleanser, toner, and moisturizer, that are optimal to maintaining healthy looking skin.
Skin Types
"Skin type" describes the typical condition of a person's skin. Life stage, genetics, environment and lifestyle influence the skin at a cellular level. This results in a particular type of skin. There are four common skin types:
- Normal skin
- Dry skin
- Oily skin
- Combination skin
- Sensitive Skin
See also: Dry Skin, Normal Skin, Oily Skin, Combination Skin and Sensitive Skin.
SPF
"SPF" is an abbreviation for "Sun Protection Factor." Sunscreens are labeled with Sun Protection Factor (SPF) numbers. The higher the SPF, the greater the protection from UVB rays.
Supplements
Supplements are products that provide special care for the skin by targeting specific concerns.
Surfactant
An active agent which amplifies the foaming, dispersing, and spreading properties of a product. Surfactants, also known as "wetting agents," lower the surface tension of a liquid, allowing easier spreading. They are typically not easily soluble.
Synthesized Compound
A man made material.
A skincare product used after cleanser and before moisturiser. Toners also remove any traces of dirt, makeup, or cleanser from the skin.
Toxins
Irritating or poisonous substances that may cause skin to break out. Cleansers are used to remove pollutants and toxins from the skin.
T-zone
The skin on the forehead, nose and chin—the area of the face that forms a shape that looks like the letter "T." The T-zone has the greatest number of sebaceous glands on the face.
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Ultraviolet (UV) Radiation
Invisible radiation produced by the sun. UV radiation damages the skin. Over time UV exposure may lead to skin concerns such as photodermatitis (rashes from the sun), premature aging (fine lines, age spots, wrinkles), and skin cancer.
UV Absorber (Organic) Filters
Absorber type UV filters work by absorbing ultraviolet light much like a sponge soaks up water. Each tiny sunscreen “sponge” soaks up ultraviolet light, and then releases it back out after converting it into lower energy and less dangerous infrared light. These filters can be thought of as “energy converters”, converting dangerous ultraviolet light into safer infrared warmth. Click here to find out more about UV Absorbers,
UV Reflector (Mineral or Inorganic) Filters
Unlike the absorber-type UV filters, reflectors tend to be less specific about the type of UV-light they reflect and tend to protect against both UVA and UVB. These sun filters act in a different way. Instead of soaking up the UV rays in the way that the absorber sun filters do, these materials reflect and scatter the UV light away from the skin without changing it to anything else. They can be thought of as thousands of tiny mirrors each reflecting UV light away from the skin. Click
here to find out more about UV Reflectors.
UVA Rays
A type of ultraviolet radiation. UVA rays are longer wavelength UV rays that can penetrate the skin deeply and cause aging. UVA rays can penetrate through clear glass. (UV Aging)
UVB Rays
A type of ultraviolet radiation. UVB rays are shorter wavelength UV rays that can burn the skin. UVB rays are partially blocked by window glass. (UV Burning)
UVC Rays
A type of ultraviolet radiation. UVC rays are even shorter wavelength UV rays however they do not make it through the earths atmosphere.
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